TEA.

BY David Williams.

This book is Licensed: Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0

A cat can be trusted, to purr when it is pleased, which is more than can be said for human beings.

 

This is going to yet another article, on something that is so British that it could only be about possibly two things. One thing that is almost always connected with the British is the weather, but that is going to be the basis of another article if I ever get around to it. So this article is going to be about that other of British of things and that is tea.

For this article on tea, I have actually done some research, yes I know it is a bit drastic, but I thought that it would be a good idea to get my facts straight from the start.

One thing that did strike me on looking at three or four encyclopedia is how similar some of the articles on tea are. The similarities even go down to the wording, so make of that what you will.

I intend to give at the end of this article a list of the material that I used for research, and if you are interested then you can see if what I say is true. It may be that you have different editions of the books to those that I have looked up, in which case your findings may be different to mine.

So at long last, let us talk about that most wonderful of drinks, which is of course Tea.

Tea is, as you well know is a beverage prepared by pouring boiling water over the dry processed tealeaves of the tea plant with the scientific name of Camellia Sinensis. It is a member of the tree plant family with the name Theaceae, and no I have not a clue what all that means. But all the books that I used in my research did say almost exactly the same, so I think we are in good hands on this one.

I now propose to go back in time and give you a flavor,

(Sorry, but I could not resist the temptation to get at least one pun in!)

What I was going to say was, that I intend to give a bit of history as to where tea is coming from, where it was first found and who found it, when it first got to Europe and then the United States.

According to legend, and five or six of the reference books that I have looked at. Tea was discovered by Emperor Shennong in China in or about the year 2737 BC.  The way that the legend goes, Emperor Shennong, an early Chinese Emperor who was  apparently a very skilled ruler, a creative scientist and he also had time to be a follower of the arts. One of the edicts that have passed down to us and also shows us that he was ahead of his time, were that all drinking water should be boiled as a hygienic precaution. So with this in mind the next bit of the legend could be true. One hot summers day, while on a visit to a remote part of his realm, he and his court stopped for a rest. In accordance with the edict above, the servants began to boil water for the court to drink. Apparently dried leaves from an evergreen bush fell into the boiling water, the water apparently turned brown with the infusion.

Now this next bit is what I find hard to believe in, that as a scientist he was interested to find out about this new liquid. So he or a servant drank some of the liquid, apart from not dying, they found the liquid to be very refreshing, so as the legend goes tea was discovered.

The earliest mention of tea in the written records is in Chinese literature in about 800 A.D by a monk called Lu Yu, who wrote a book called Ch’a Ching. This book details within it, methods of tea cultivation,  methods of preparation of tea in ancient China.

According to what I have read, the custom of drinking tea then spread to Japan by about 600 A.D, caused by the first tea seeds being brought into Japan by a returning Buddhist priest called Yeisei. Yeisei brought the tea in to Japan, as he had seen the value of tea in China as enhancing religious mediation.

Yeisei to this day in Japan at least, is known, as the father of tea, it is for this reason alone that tea in Japan has always been associated with Zen Buddhism.

No, I do not know why it took it so long to get to Japan, maybe trade was not very good. It might even be that there were not that many people around or some very large distances separated people from each other.

Tea finally got to Europe via the Dutch traders who imported it from China and Japan in about 1560. According to one reference, the first European to personally see tea and write about it was a Portuguese Jesuit Father called Jasper de Cruz in about 1560. This reference goes on to say that the Portuguese developed a trade route by which the tea was shipped to Lisbon, then the Dutch transported it the rest of the way.

The United States of America finally got the chance to have some tea, when the Dutch started to import it in about 1650. Peter Stuyvesant is given as the first man to bring tea to the colonists in the Dutch settlement of New Amsterdam, which was re-named by the English to its much more familiar name of New York. Apparently, when the English had finally acquired the colony, they found that the small settlement consumed more tea at that time than all of England.

By 1720, in America tea was one of the basic items that was being traded between the colony and England. It was treated as a luxury, so it was heavily taxed, and was if you recall your history one of the factors that would lead to the colony seeking its independence some years later. As a side note, some of the other things at the time that were also taxed were newspapers, tavern licenses, marriage licenses and finally docking papers.

The first time that tea was sold in England was in about 1652 to 1654, it was so popular that the popular drink at the time, which was ale, was soon replaced by tea. Coffee houses in London which at the time were big business, went on to sell both tea and coffee, ever since that time, tea has been the national drink of the British.

The coffee houses of that time where exclusively for men, they have often been called “Penny Universities” ,because for a penny you could obtain a pot of tea, a copy of the newspaper and engage in conversation with the brightest and sharpest wits of the day.

This is where I intend to give some hard facts about tea. Most of this information comes from several sources, most of the data is for the year ending 1998. So by the time you read this, the facts and figures may be out of date, so the figures might have changed somewhat.

Tea is apparently the most popular refreshing drink in more countries in the world than any other non-alcoholic beverage. The worldwide production of tea totals about 2.6 thousand million kilograms, that is about 5.75 thousand million pounds, for the year 1998.

The main producer of tea in the world is India, which has always been one of the main producers of tea since the early 1800’s. Production of tea for 1998 from India was in the region of 720 million kilograms, that is 1.5 thousand million pounds of tea.

The second largest producer of tea worldwide is China who in 1998 produced about 600 million kilograms of tea, which is about 1.25 thousand million pounds of tea.

Some of the other producers of tea include Sri Lanka, Kenya and finally Indonesia. However the main producers of tea themselves consume half the tea produced worldwide each year.

The country the imports the most tea in the world is, and this really should not be a surprise is Britain. The amount that Britain imported in 1998 was about 180 million kilograms of tea, that is about 400 million pounds.

The consumption per person of tea between people in the United Kingdom and say the United States in 1998 was 3.2 kilograms or 7 pounds of tea per person in the UK and about 0.34 kilograms or 0.75 pounds of tea in the United States.

This is where I am going to talk more about Camellia Sinensis, that is the tree plant to you and me. From the above paragraph it should be easy to see that the tree plant grows in either tropical or subtropical climates. That means places like India and China and of course Sri Lanka.

From the various books that I have looked at, the tree plant is an evergreen. It will grow very quickly at low altitudes, where the air is warm, but the downside of this is that the flavor is not so strong or at its best. Therefore the best tea, is from plants at a high altitude of about 900 to 200 meters or 3000 to 7000 feet where the air is cooler and so the plant grows slower and so improves the flavor.

Tea plants have small white flowers, and give off a sweet smell. When pollinated the flowers produce three seeds that for the entire world look like hazelnuts in size and shape.

Tea plants can be cultivated either by planting seeds in a nursery bed or by planting cuttings of tea plants in a bed. The growth of such plants is such that within the year the plants will be about 20 centimeters tall. That is about 8 inches high. These plants are then transplanted to the tea fields. A typical tea field contains about 3000 plants and is about 0.4 of a hectare in size, that is about 1 acre in the old money, if I have converted it correctly.

If the tea plant is allowed to grow wild it can reach a height of about 9 meters or 30 feet. But for commercial reasons e.g. ease of harvest they are normally kept at a height of about 90 to 130 centimeters, that is to say 3 to 4 feet tall.

A typical tea plant will take depending on climate etc up to 5 years to mature, but it could be in as little time as 3 years. When the plant is mature it produces a growth of new shoots called a flush. Each shoot is made up of several leaves and a bud. If the plant is at low altitude in the warm air, it can produce a flush every week. At the higher altitudes in the cooler air it can take up to two weeks for the plant to produce a flush. In colder weather no flushes will be produced and the plant for all intents and purposes goes into a state of hibernation.

On a typical tea plantation most of the tea is picked by hand. A good tea plucker picks off the flushes by hand, a good days work is to pluck some 18 kilograms or 40 pounds of flushes a day. This amount of flushes when put through the manufacturing process, would result in about 4.5 to 5 kilograms or 10 pounds of usable tea.

There are three main kinds of tea produced commercially. They are black, green and oolong. They differ in how the tea was processed at the factory on the tea plantation. All the main tea-producing countries produce black tea. For some reason mainly to do with national taste and the climate green and oolong tea are produced mainly in the following countries, China, Taiwan and Japan.

The process to make black tea is, first the workers on the tea plantation spread the leaves on racks called withering racks. Air is blown over the leaves to remove a lot of the moisture; this process leaves them soft and flexible. The withered leaves are then crushed between rollers to release the juices. These leaves are then taken into the fermenting room, where in carefully controlled conditions of temperature and humidity the leaves turn a coppery colour and undergo a chemical change. The final process in making black tea, is that these coppery coloured leaves are dried in ovens where they turn a brownish black.

Steaming the leaves in very large vats makes green tea. The steaming prevents the tealeaves from changing colour so that they remain green. The final process in making green tea is to crush the leaves and dry them in ovens to produce the final product.

Allowing the leaves to partially ferment makes Oolong tea, which is regarded as the “champagne of teas”. Which allows them to change their colour to a stage between green and black. The leaves end up a greenish-brown colour and the last process is again crushing the leaves and being dried in large ovens.

Tealeaves are graded by how large the leaves are, but the size of leaves has nothing to do with the quality of the tea produced from those leaves. The leaves are normally sized at the factory by the use of screens with different sized holes in.

The largest tea leaves which are normally selected for loose tea are classified in order of size as orange pekoe then pekoe and finally pekoe souchong, as you can tell these are not English words but Chinese.

The smaller or the broken tealeaves, which are normally used in tea bags, are classified in order of size as broken orange pekoe, broken orange fannings and finally fannings.

I can now see you wanting to ask, how is this instant tea power made then? Aren’t you?

Well, instant tea is made by brewing the tea on a large scale e.g. thousands of liters of tea at a time. This brew then has the water removed by a clever drying process, which at the end of it leaves a powder.

This powdered tea will easily combine with moisture, so when it is packed, it has to be packed under carefully controlled humidity and temperature conditions. When you come to make instant tea at home, all you are doing is adding the water back in.

Now you may wonder when instant tea was invented and first marketed and the answer was a surprise to me, it was in 1948 and it happened in the United States.

This last bit of this article is going to be about Iced Tea, how the humble teabag came into being, and when this all happened.

In 1904, the United States held a worlds Fair in St. Louis, traders from all over the world attended what was America’s first world trade fair. One such trader was a man called Richard Blechynden who at that time was a tea plantation owner. He originally planned to give away free samples of hot tea to the fairs visitors. But it so happened that a heat wave hit at about the same time, as the fair, so you can understand that the visitors were not that interested in hot tea. So in an act of desperation and to save all the money that he had invested in the fair, he dumped a load of ice into the brewed tea, that he was trying to give away, so he served the first Iced Tea. It is not surprising, that it became one of the hits of the fair.

Some four years later, that is in about 1908, other references give the year as 1904, Thomas Sullivan who was from New York, at the time developed the idea of bagged tea. His idea was to distribute his tea samples, carefully wrapped in small silk bags to restaurants.

It turns out that instead of un-wrapping the tea from its silk bag, because there was no written explanation, that some restaurants were brewing the tea while still in its bag. Sullivan had expected them to open the bag and pour the tea into the pot and brew it. By doing so the users found that it was a much faster method, to prepare a cup of tea. It also had the added benefit of enabling them to get rid of the used tealeaves after they had been used. When orders for the sample bags poured in Sullivan began to make the bags from filter paper instead of silk, so the tea bag had been invented.

References

The Stash Tea Company Pamphlet 1999

The World Book Encyclopedia 1998

Encarta 1998

Webster’s World Encyclopedia 1997

Cambridge Encyclopedia 1996

 Contact Index